Garachico is the ancient commercial capital of northern Tenerife. Buried by a volcanic eruption in 1706, then rebuilt stone by stone on solidified lava. Result: a city of rare architectural coherence, with its natural swimming pools carved into black volcanic rock and its intact waterfront.
Please note: Garachico can be visited in 2-3 hours. The village is 15 minutes from Icod de los Vinos and 30 minutes from Masca, all three can be done in one day.
On May 5, 1706, the Trevejo volcano awoke just above Garachico. In nine days, lava flows rushed to the sea, engulfing the island's most active port at the time. The warehouses, the boats, the houses in the shopping district: everything went under the cold black rock. Garachico lost its role as a gateway for trade with America. The residents did not flee, however. They rebuilt the city right on the cooled flows. That's why today, walking in the streets, you feel the uneven ground under your feet, the walls that follow the lava bumps, the squares that stop abruptly where the rock has frozen. Even the natural pools of El Caletón were born from this brutal contact between burning lava and ocean. The disaster redesigned everything, but it also gave the city this raw and compact character that is found nowhere else on the north coast.
Tip: Take the time to walk along the coast near Castillo San Miguel at sunrise. You will still see the traces of the old flows which forced the city to reinvent itself on site.
Most people stay around El Caletón and Plaza Libertad. They miss the fishermen's quarter just behind the small port, where the boats are still pulled onto the sand in the morning. The narrow streets smell of nets and salt, and the elders continue to repair their nets in front of their homes. For the views, go up to the Santa Ana church and look for the small passage on the side which allows access to the flat roof when it is open: from there, the entire city spread out on the lava appears at once. More discreet, the bodegas that sell Icoden white wine often remain hidden behind discreet doors in the alleys perpendicular to Calle Estévez. They don't have a flashy sign. For the swimming pools, arrive before 9 a.m. or after 6 p.m. on weekdays outside July-August: the water is calmer and you have the pools to yourself, without the buses which arrive around 11 a.m.
The tip: Ask the locals near the port where the closest bodega is located which opens directly onto the interior courtyard. It's often free to taste a glass of chilled white if you buy a bottle.