Mist, silence, moss on twisted trunks. The Anaga massif occupies the northeastern tip of Tenerife — 14,500 hectares of ridges, ravines and laurel forest (laurisilva) that glaciations erased from continental Europe millions of years ago. Here, it has survived thanks to the trade winds that push clouds against the peaks. Result: a living fossil ecosystem, classified as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2015. Anaga holds the highest density of endemic species per km² of anywhere in Europe.
The trick: Fog makes the forest more beautiful, not less. Clear mornings offer panoramic views of Teide and the coast; misty afternoons transform the laurisilva into a fairy tale setting. Both are worth the trip. For the Sendero del Pijaral — the wildest hike — book your free time slot 16 days in advance on centralreservas.tenerife.es (45 people/day max).
Anaga is Tenerife's oldest part: between 7 and 9 million years old. Erosion has carved sharp ridges and deep barrancos that plunge into the ocean. The rural park spans three municipalities — Santa Cruz, La Laguna and Tegueste — and still abides around 22,000 inhabitants, concentrated in small villages clinging to the slopes.
Laurisilva covered the Mediterranean basin 40 million years ago. Glaciations eliminated it from the continent, but it survived on the Macaronesian islands (Canaries, Madeira, Azores) thanks to the humid microclimate created by trade winds. Anaga harbors the largest laurisilva massif on Tenerife. Beneath the canopy of laurels, tree heathers and giant ferns, nearly 1,900 species of invertebrates live here, along with endemic reptiles (the spotted lizard of Tenerife, the gecko), and two pigeons found nowhere else: Bolle's pigeon and the laurel pigeon.
The Sendero de los Sentidos (1.5 km, 45 min, no elevation gain) starts from Cruz del Carmen — a sensory loop through the forest, accessible with all-terrain pushchairs. Children love it.
The Chinamada trail (6 km round-trip, 3h, ~400 m elevation gain) runs along the ridge with views of the Atlantic before descending toward a village of still-inhabited cave houses. Moderate difficulty — closed-toe shoes mandatory.
The Sendero del Pijaral (PR-TF 10, 3h round-trip) crosses Anaga's densest primary forest — reservation required and free on the Cabildo website, 45 places per day.
The descent to Taganana via PR-TF 8 (2h, -500 m elevation) offers spectacular sea views mid-way. Follow up with grilled fish lunch at a chiringuito in Taganana — papas arrugadas, green mojo, fish of the day — expect €12-15.
Roque Taborno (2h30 loop) is nicknamed Tenerife's "Matterhorn" for its sharp silhouette. 360° coastal views.