The trick: Mist makes the forest more beautiful, not less. Clear mornings offer panoramas of the Teide and the coast; misty afternoons transform the laurisilva into a fairy-tale setting. Both are worth the trip. For the Sendero del Pijaral — the wildest hike — book your free slot 16 days in advance on centralreservas.tenerife.es (45 people/day max).
Anaga is Tenerife's oldest part: between 7 and 9 million years old. Erosion has sculpted sharp ridges and deep barrancos that plunge into the ocean. The rural park stretches across three municipalities — Santa Cruz, La Laguna and Tegueste — and is home to around 22,000 inhabitants, concentrated in small villages clinging to the slopes.
Laurisilva covered the Mediterranean basin 40 million years ago. Glaciations eliminated it from the continent, but it survived on the Macaronesian islands (Canaries, Madeira, Azores) thanks to the humid microclimate created by trade winds. Anaga holds the largest laurisilva massif on Tenerife. Beneath the canopy of laurels, tree heathers and giant ferns, nearly 1,900 species of invertebrates live here, along with endemic reptiles (the spotted lizard of Tenerife, the gecko), and two pigeons found nowhere else: Bolle's pigeon and the laurel pigeon.
The Sendero de los Sentidos (1.5 km, 45 min, no elevation gain) starts from Cruz del Carmen — a sensory loop through forest, accessible with an all-terrain pushchair. Children love it.
The Chinamada trail (6 km return, 3h, ~400 m elevation gain) follows the ridge with views over the Atlantic before descending towards a village of still-inhabited troglodyte houses. Moderate difficulty — closed shoes mandatory.
The Sendero del Pijaral (PR-TF 10, 3h return) crosses Anaga's densest primary forest — booking required and free on the Cabildo website, 45 places per day.
The descent to Taganana via PR-TF 8 (2h, -500 m elevation gain) offers spectacular sea views mid-hike. Follow up with grilled fish lunch at a Taganana chiringuito — papas arrugadas, green mojo, fish of the day — expect €12-15.
Roque Taborno (2h30 loop) is nicknamed "Tenerife's Matterhorn" for its sharp silhouette. 360° coastal views.
The north coast of the massif hides black sand beaches between the cliffs. Benijo is the most photographed — the Roques de Anaga in the background, sunset over the Atlantic. Swimming not advised (strong currents). Almáciga, a little further on, is the locals' surf spot. These beaches have almost no facilities — that's their whole charm.
The La Laguna → Anaga → Las Teresitas triangle can be done in a day without backtracking. Morning: La Laguna (UNESCO centre, café) → Cruz del Carmen (Sentier des Sens or Chinamada). Midday: descent to Taganana for lunch. Afternoon: Benijo beach for sunset or Las Teresitas for swimming. Return via Santa Cruz in 20 minutes.
Closed shoes — roots are slippery even in dry weather. Jacket or windbreaker essential: when it's 28°C on the coast, it's 15-17°C in the forest. Water and snacks — no resupply on the trails. Don't leave anything visible in your car at the carpark, thefts from rental cars are frequent. Mist falls within 10 minutes — never leave the marked trail. Free access, open year-round, no booking required except for Pijaral.
Naturalist guides offer visits from the Visitor Centre (~€15/person) — they know every tree by its Canarian name and the old shepherd paths.