White rock columns, tufa mushrooms, needles sculpted by millennia of erosion, planted in the middle of a Canarian pine forest at 1,500 meters altitude. Paisaje Lunar looks like nothing else on the island. Neither volcanic in the classical sense, nor tropical, it's a fascinating geological accident. You'd think you were in Cappadocia, except you can smell the pine resin and glimpse the Atlantic between the trunks.
Departing from Vilaflor, the highest village in the Canaries (1,400 m). The marked trail PR-TF 72 is about 8 km round trip. The path first crosses a magnificent pine forest, 30-meter Canarian pines, ground covered in brown needles, total silence except for the wind in the treetops. After 45 minutes of walking, the forest opens and the first formations appear. The elevation gain is moderate (~300 m) but the return climb is more demanding than you might imagine, save energy and water for the end.
In the morning, absolutely. The low-angle light between 8am and 10am makes the white formations pop against the blue sky and green pines, perfect photo time. In the afternoon, shadows flatten and summer heat makes the hike grueling (even at 1,500 m). In winter, the formations under snow (yes, it does snow here sometimes) are extraordinary, but the road may be closed. Avoid strong wind days: tufa dust stings the eyes and gets everywhere.
Most hikers pass through Vilaflor without stopping. Mistake. The central plaza has a bar-grocery serving café con leche and homemade almond cakes. The Church of San Pedro Apóstol (16th century) is open in the morning. And at the south exit of the village, a 45-meter-tall Canarian pine with an 8-meter girth presides over a small garden, locals say it's over 800 years old. Vilaflor also produces one of the Canaries' most distinctive high-altitude wines, Bodega Cumbres de Abona is 5 minutes by car.
Car essential. From the south: TF-28 then TF-21 via Vilaflor, ~45 min from Los Cristianos. From the north: TF-21 from La Orotava via Teide, ~1h15 (longer but the road is spectacular). Free parking at the trailhead, at the exit of Vilaflor. No direct bus. Bring 1.5L of water minimum and a jacket, at 1,500 m temperature drops quickly, especially if wind picks up. Hiking shoes recommended (roots, rocks, sandy ground). The trail is unguarded, no entrance fee, no reservation needed.
Photo : Manfred Werner / Wikimedia Commons / CC-BY-SA 4.0