La Laguna is Tenerife's first city and the only one listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A former colonial capital, it served as a model for cities founded in Latin America in the 16th century. Today, this vibrant university city of 150,000 inhabitants blends baroque architecture, street art, tapas bars, and students, a total change of scenery compared to the beach resorts in the south.
To know: La Laguna is easily accessible from Santa Cruz (10 min by tram) or the airport (15 min by taxi). Ideal for a cultural day away from the beaches.
In 1497, Alonso Fernández de Lugo laid the first stones according to a perfect grid plan, without walls. Straight streets crossing at right angles, a central plaza, regular city blocks. It was the first Spanish colonial city without fortifications, and this layout was copied throughout South and Central America. The cathedral, Palacio de Nava, Casa Aguirre, and the San Agustín convent, all these colonial buildings remain almost intact. When you walk through the casco histórico, you follow the exact same grid that the conquistadors exported to Mexico and Peru. The Guanches had been defeated just before, and La Laguna became the launching point for the entire American adventure. Even today, the façades with wooden balconies and interior courtyards tell this story of a laboratory city.
The tip: Follow Calle San Agustín to the end and turn into the small cross streets: you'll see the private patios that remain closed to the public but visible from the street. That's where the grid plan truly comes to life.
With nearly 18,500 students in a city of 150,000 inhabitants, La Laguna lives to the rhythm of the university after 8pm. Natural wine bars around Plaza del Adelantado and in the alleys behind Calle Herradores fill with groups moving from one tapas bar to another. It's not the loud atmosphere of Santa Cruz or the tourist bars in the south. Here, local students and those from mainland Spain or elsewhere discuss politics, university life, and music late into the night. Wine cellars serve listán blanco and malvasías you won't find elsewhere. In summer, terraces stay open until 2am without anyone raising their voices. It's the city where Tinerfeños who want to live normally settle, far from hotel complexes.
The tip: After 10pm, head to the bars around Plaza de la Concepción. Students go there for natural wines and prices remain those of locals.
