Tenerife without a car is doable. Tenerife with a car is a different island. Guaguas (buses) cover the main routes, but for Masca at sunset, the hidden coves of the northeast, or the Teide road via Vilaflor at dawn — you need a steering wheel. The good news: prices are among the lowest in Europe. Budget 15-25€/day off-season for a compact car, often less than an Uber from the airport to your hotel.
The two airports (Tenerife Sur for the touristy south, Tenerife Norte for the authentic north) concentrate all the counters. Local companies dominate: Cicar (Canarian, most reliable, recent fleet), Autoreisen (good value for money), and TopCar (omnipresent but variable service). International chains — Europcar, Hertz, Sixt — charge 30-50% more with no real advantage on an island 80 km long. Avoid ultra-discount rental companies without a physical office: hidden fees (cleaning, fuel, scratches) explode at return. The trick: book online 2-3 weeks in advance, especially in July-August and Christmas. Prices on-site are always more expensive.
The TF-1 (southern motorway) and TF-5 (northern motorway) are free, well-maintained, and fast. It's between the two that things get tricky. The TF-436 towards Masca is famous: hairpin turns, no barriers, and tour buses coming head-on. Not dangerous with a compact car and a bit of nerve — but motorhomes suffer. The TF-21 from Vilaflor towards Teide is the most beautiful road on the island: pine forest, volcanic desert, views of La Gomera, all in 30 minutes. The Anaga roads (TF-12, TF-134) are narrow and misty but spectacular. Fuel prices remain variable but often lower than mainland France. Watch out: gas stations in small villages close on Sundays.
Simple rule: blue line = paid (meter, ~0.50-1€/h), white line = free, yellow line = no parking. Free parking exists almost everywhere except downtown Santa Cruz, La Laguna old town, and Puerto de la Cruz in high season. At Teide, the cable car parking is free but full by 10am in summer — arrive at 8:30am or take the road via La Esperanza (Portillo car park, never full). The underground car park at Plaza de España in Santa Cruz (2€ for 2 hours) is the most convenient downtown. In Costa Adeje, shopping centers (Siam Mall, Plaza del Duque) offer 2 hours free — locals park there to go to the beach.
CDW (collision damage waiver) is included in almost all online bookings. What isn't: tires, undercarriage, windshield, and theft. Cicar offers "comprehensive without excess" for ~8€/day — it's the best deal on the island, take it without hesitation. With other rental companies, check the excess (often 800-1200€). Gold/Premier credit card insurance theoretically covers the excess, but the reimbursement process is a nightmare — don't count on it. A child seat costs 5-7€/day, book it in advance (often out of stock in summer). Your phone's GPS is enough — never pay for the rental company's.
You drive on the right, like in France. Canarians drive fairly well overall but turn signals are optional and roundabouts are negotiated by feel. On mountain roads, the vehicle going uphill has priority — the one going down backs up to a passing point. Fixed speed cameras are rare but Guardia Civil checks on Teide and Anaga roads are frequent. Speed limit in town: 30-50 km/h. Road: 90 km/h. Motorway: 120 km/h. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.5 g/L — one glass of wine, no more.