Pilot whales (calderones in Spanish, pilot whales in English) are the stars: sleek black, 4 to 6 meters, characteristic bulbous forehead. They swim slowly at the surface, blow, dive. Bottlenose dolphins (delfines mulares) are the acrobats — jumps, surfing the bow wave of boats, playing with their young. From February to May, Blainville's beaked whales and tropical rorquals pass through on migration. Atlantic spotted dolphins appear in summer by the hundreds. With luck (rare but documented each year): sperm whales, orcas, and even blue whales.
Two departure ports: Los Cristianos and Puerto Colón (Costa Adeje). Outings of 2 hours (standard, observation only) or 4-5 hours (with swimming and snorkeling stop). Price: €25-40 for 2 hours, €50-70 for the day. Criterion #1: boat size. Large catamarans (60-80 people, music, bar, club atmosphere) scare away cetaceans and the experience is mediocre. Favor small boats (12-20 seats) with a biologist guide on board. Look for the "Barco Azul" label (blue flag) — it certifies compliance with approach distances and observation protocols.
Morning (10am-12pm) offers the calmest sea and best light for photos. In the afternoon, thermal wind picks up around 1pm and swell makes observation difficult (and strains sensitive stomachs). Take anti-nausea medication 30 minutes before boarding if you're sensitive — even in calm seas, 2 hours of swaying takes its toll. On days of strong northeast wind (trade winds), outings are sometimes cancelled — check the night before.
Tenerife has enforced strict regulations since 2000: prohibition on swimming with cetaceans, minimum distance of 60 meters, lateral approach only (never head-on), reduced speed, maximum 30 minutes of observation per animal group. Serious operators cut the engine when approaching and speak in low voices. If your boat charges at dolphins, plays music, or approaches closer than 30 meters — report it to 112 or the Policía Marítima. These practices are sanctioned and degrade a unique site.