Puerto de la Cruz has been welcoming tourists since the 19th century — the first English villas went up in 1880, long before the south was paved over. The old town came through intact: the cobbled old port, a botanical garden dating to 1788, and a black-sand Playa Jardín designed by César Manrique. One of the few resorts where residents still live as they did before the hotels arrived.
Things to know before you go: The northern sea is cooler and more turbulent than the south. Natural pools formed by volcanic rocks (Lago Martianez) more than make up for it.
Plaza del Charco — The beating heart of the city. Café terraces under laurel trees, Sunday morning market, evening entertainment. Arrive at 6pm for aperitivos with locals — mojitos at €4.
Botanical Garden (Jardín de Aclimatación) — Created in 1788, one of Spain's oldest botanical gardens. The giant fig tree at the entrance is over 200 years old. Entry €3, closed Mondays.
Lago Martianez — Complex of seawater pools designed by César Manrique. Spectacular architecture and vegetation. €5 entry, ideal on rough sea days.
Playa Jardín — Black volcanic sand beach designed by Manrique. Less crowded than southern beaches, with free-access tropical gardens.
Old Town (Casco Histórico) — Typically Canarian wooden balconies, colorful houses. Calle Blanco and Calle Santo Domingo are must-see streets.
Local guachinches — Ask locals — no signs, discreet entrance, home cooking for €8-12. Look in the heights of La Vera.
Municipal Market (Mercado Municipal) — Local tropical fruits, Canarian cheeses, homemade mojo rojo. Open mornings only, closed Sunday afternoons.
Casa del Vino (20 minutes by car) — Canarian wine tasting with views of Teide. Free for basic tasting.