Forget supermarkets. Tenerife's markets, mercadillos del agricultor, are the best place to understand what Canarians really eat. Local producers sell directly: Tenerife's black tomatoes (sweeter than anything you've ever tasted), goat cheeses aged in mountain caves, tajinaste honey harvested above 1,500 meters, and Canarian bananas so small and fragrant they'll ruin supermarket bananas for life.
The Mercadillo del Agricultor de Tacoronte (Saturday 8am-2:30pm, Sunday 8am-2pm) is the king: the largest, most varied, most authentic in the north. Fruits, vegetables, fish, cheeses, bulk wine, honey, homemade jams, flowers. Arrive at 9am to have choices, by 1pm the best stalls are empty. The Mercadillo de La Orotava (Saturday 8am-1:30pm) is smaller but its selection of local cheeses and wines is excellent, the queso ahumado (smoked cheese) stand at the back left is worth the trip. The Mercadillo de Tegueste (Saturday and Sunday mornings) is the favorite of locals in the northeast, village atmosphere, fewer crowds, same products.
The Rastro is the oldest flea market in the Canaries, since 1979. Every Sunday from 9am to 3pm, Avenida Marítima (new location since 2025) transforms into a bazaar: antiques, vintage clothing, Canarian crafts, vinyl records, secondhand goods, and street food. It's the Sunday morning meeting spot in Santa Cruz, families stroll with a barraquito, bargain hunters dig through crates, and the vibe is laid-back. Arrive early: the best finds are gone before 11am.
The Night Market de Costa Adeje (every Monday from 7pm onwards, facing the Luabay hotel) is the most touristy but convenient for south-side vacationers: crafts, jewelry, street food under the stars. Nice after the beach. The Mercadillo Nocturno de Los Cristianos (certain Fridays in season) is smaller and more local. The Christmas markets (December, Plaza del Charco in Puerto de la Cruz and Plaza de España in Santa Cruz) have their own special atmosphere, turrones, castañas asadas (roasted chestnuts), and Canarian mulled wine.
Buy: queso curado de cabra del país (ask for it by this name), mojo rojo and mojo verde in jars (red is spicy, green is cilantro-based), tajinaste honey (translucent, unique flavor in the world, base of the most prize-winning honey in the Canaries), gofio (roasted flour, Guanche staple food for 2,000 years), and bienmesabe (almond paste and honey, traditional dessert). Cheeses and honey pass through cabin baggage. Jar mojo too. Wine: checked baggage only. Avoid: souvenirs "made in China" with Tenerife stickers, industrial mojo sauces, and unlicensed "Cuban cigars."
Cash only in most mercadillos, bring bills. Prices aren't negotiable (this isn't a souk, producers set their prices). Bring your own bags. Mercadillos close by 2pm maximum, arrive in the first hour.