1,400 meters above sea level. Canarian pines standing 40 meters tall. Dry, crisp air that surprises you after the humidity of the coast. Vilaflor de Chasna is the highest inhabited village in the entire Canary Islands archipelago, and the most beautiful southern gateway to Teide National Park. Most visitors pass through without stopping. Mistake: Vilaflor deserves an hour, a coffee on the square, and a detour to the giant pine.
The square is dominated by the church of San Pedro Apóstol (16th century) and a bust of Hermano Pedro, a Franciscan friar born here in 1626, the first saint of the Canaries (canonized in 2002, locals are very proud of this). Around the square: a bar-grocery that serves cortado coffee and homemade almond cakes, a public fountain, and Canarian houses built from dark volcanic stone. On Sunday mornings, a farmers market sells black altitude potatoes, aged goat cheese, and retama honey, the most flavorful products on the island, cultivated where nothing should grow.
At the south exit of the village, a 45-meter-tall Canarian pine tree with an 8-meter circumference has stood for over 800 years. It's one of the most impressive trees in the archipelago, a small garden with a bench lets you sit at its base and grasp the scale. From Vilaflor, the TF-21 climbs toward Teide, crossing Tenerife's most varied landscape in 30 minutes: dense pine forest, lava clearings, volcanic desert, then a snow-capped cone. It's the island's most beautiful road, local hikers climb this way instead of taking the TF-24 highway via La Esperanza.
The Paisaje Lunar (fairy chimneys in white tufa) is 4 km on foot: trail PR-TF 72, 8 km round trip, 3 hours. It's Vilaflor's flagship hike, see the dedicated guide. For the more ambitious, the trail continues toward the Cañadas of Teide (18 km, full day, experienced hikers only). In May-June, red tajinastes bloom along the trail above 1,600 meters.
Vilaflor sits in the heart of Abona's wine region, Europe's highest. Vines grow between 800 and 1,700 meters on volcanic soils, with day-night temperature swings that produce mineral, crisp white wines. Bodega Cumbres de Abona offers tastings by appointment. Listán blanco and baboso are the varieties to try. At the village restaurant, conejo en salmorejo (marinated rabbit) and papas con mojo with garlic are Canarian mountain cuisine, rustic, generous, honest.